If you can’t afford to eat at Pierre Gagnaire’s eponymous restaurant, this Left Bank fish bistro gives a more accessibly priced taste of his daring style: cod “petals” come in a martini glass with soba noodles, mango and grapefruit, while a French take on fish ‘n chips shows his affinity with London, where he runs the restaurant Sketch. Gagnaire’s unpredictable way with fish is all the more welcome in a city that favors a minimalist approach to seafood, and the revamped dining room provides an inviting contemporary setting (particularly the main floor room with its fish-scale wall and bar for solo diners).
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